Hardwood Care
+ Living
with natural hardwood floors
+ Take a close look
+ Preventing damage
+ Regular care
+ Does your new hardwood floor look old?
+ What condition is your floor in?
+ What type of finish does your floor have?
+ When
your hardwood floor needs extra care
+ Damp mopping
+ Maintenance coat
+ Removing stains in waxed floors
+ Removing stains and repairing surface finishes
+ Squeaks
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Hardwood |
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When
people speak of older homes, you'll often hear them praise their
sense of "character." Many times this can be attributed
to the beauty of hardwood floors. Warm, rich and distinct, hardwood
floors can be a perfect choice for all types of living. They're
also more durable and easy to maintain than you may think.
Most hardwood flooring in the
United States is made from Red Oak, but the availability of
other species such as Pecan, Maple and more exotic varieties
like Ash, Rosewood and Teak mean that you can find the perfect
grain and color to match your decor.
When shopping for your hardwood floor, Scandia Carpets recommend
you consider the following characteristics:
+ Wood Grain - Varies from natural, rustic
looks to cleaner, more contemporary appearances.
+ Finish System - Options include unfinished,
Urethane finishes and acrylic impregnation.
+ Styling - A wide variety of standard and
decorator colors, patterns and accent colors are available.
The most popular planks are either 2 1/4" or 3" wide,
and you can choose between square edge, beveled edge or micro-beveled
edge construction.
+ Warranty - Can cover structural integrity
and/or surface wear.
Scandia Carpets feature a variety of quality hardwood floor
brands, including Harris-Tarkett and Anderson© Hardwood
floors.
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How
to Care for Solid Hardwood Floors!
Living with Natural Hardwood Floors
Solid hardwood floors repay a little care with a lifetime
of value. When you first glimpse a solid hardwood floor, you
sense richness, warmth and natural beauty. Gradually, you
get to know its distinct personality -- visual harmonies,
the traces of history in the forest and in your home.
Take a closer look.
- Appreciate the color and pattern of the floor's strips,
planks or parquetry.
- Read the grain: Is it bold-textured oak? Subdued maple or
cherry?
- Check the condition of the underlying wood and the finish
that protects it. Are there signs of neglect to erase (it's
not difficult), or do you see a well-tended surface that needs
just a light touch to maintain it?
Nature's diversity lets you create dramatic looks with
unique textures, colors, patterns and styles of solid hardwood
flooring.
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Protect Your Solid Investment
Solid hardwood floors are among the easiest to keep clean.
Protect their warmth and character with simple, everyday cleaning
techniques. It's important to know how to prevent damage to
your solid hardwood floors.
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PREVENTION
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DIRT
and GRIT |
WATER
AND OTHER SPILLS |
HARD
CLEANERS |
| Dirt,
grit and sand are your hardwood floors worst enemies.
They act like sandpaper on the finish, causing scratches,
dents and dulling. Place floor mats at entrances to trap
dirt and prevent damage. |
Standing
water can warp a poorly finished hardwood floor and can
damage the finish. Simply wipe up all spills as they happen. |
Avoid
oil soaps. They can build up and create problems when
it's time to put a maintenance coat on the floor. Instead,
neutral pH cleaners made specifically for wood floors
are recommended. |
FURNITURE |
DENTS |
SUN |
| Lift
the furniture to move it --- avoid dragging. Felt contacts
under the legs will help prevent scratches. |
Vacuum
with a brush attachment -- don't use vacuums with beater
bars. |
Direct
sun can discolor your hardwood floor. Close curtains and
blinds or add sheer drapes to protect from the sun's intense
UV rays. |
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REGULAR
CARE
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SWEEP |
VACUUM |
DUST
MOP |
| Brooms
with fine, exploded ends trap dust and grit effectively. |
Canister
vacuums with special bare floor attachments are the surest
way to get rid of all the dirt and dust. |
Use
a good dust mop --- one with a 12- to 18- inch cotton
head ---- and a special dust mop treatment. Spray the
treatment onto the mop head 12 to 24 hours before dust
mopping. |
Oak and maple are the most popular hardwoods used in flooring.
Ask, beech, birch, cherry, hickory and walnut are other favorites
for floors and decorative accents.
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Does Your New Hardwood Floor Look
Old?
Perhaps your hardwood floors were installed just a few years
ago, but you haven't taken care of them and now they look old.
What can you do? Before you do anything, check the condition
of the finish and the wood to see whether they need special
cleaning or more involved repair.
What condition is your floor
in?
Follow these steps to evaluate the condition of your hardwood
floor and its finish.
Finish Condition
Has the finish been worn off or is it just dirty? See if the
finish is dull, chipped, scraped or gouged. To test if the finish
has worn off, begin in a high-traffic area and pour one to two
tablespoons of water onto the floor. If the water soaks in immediately
and leaves a darkened spot, the finish is worn and water can
damage the wood. If the water soaks in after a few minutes and
darkens the wood only slightly, the finish is partially worn.
If the water beads on top, the surface is properly sealed. Repeat
this test in low- and medium-traffic areas.
Wood Condition
It the finish is worn, the wood may have been damaged. Are there
stains, burns, cuts, gouges, holes, cracks or warped boards?
If the wood is damaged, repair or replacement may be required
before you deep clean your floor or apply a maintenance coat.
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What type of finish does your
floor have?
The same care and maintenance techniques are used for all finishes
in good condition, but when it comes to removing stains or restoring
the finish, methods differ. If you don't know what kind of finish
your floor has, ask your contractor or Realtor, or try these
simple tests.
Surface
Finishes: (pre-finished floors, polyurethane, water-based
urethane and catalyzed)
Nearly all floors installed today have surface finishes, mostly
polyurethane. They are often glossy and may look like a layer
of clear plastic on top of the wood. A small amount of paint
remover in an inconspicuous area of the floor will cause the
surface finish to bubble (unless it is a water-based urethane,
in which case there will be no reaction). Surface finishes shield
floors from harm by forming a protective layer on top of the
wood.
Penetrating
Seals: (acrylics, oils and waxes)
Oils and waxes usually have a satin or matte finish. If you
can feel the wood grain when you run your hand across the surface,
it's most likely a penetrating seal. Paint remover will have
no effect on a penetrating seal, but wax stripper or ammonia
will soften and whiten the surface. Oils and waxes penetrate
the surface of the floor protecting the wood from within.
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When Your Hardwood Floor Needs
Extra Care
Your hardwood floor will eventually need extra care. It's
here that much controversy exists.
DAMP MOPPING
Some professionals recommend that you damp mop your hardwood
floor and others cringe at the suggestion. Just remember, if
your floor's finish is in good shape and mopping is done correctly,
the water won't penetrate even the oil and wax finishes. You're
cleaning the finish, not the wood, so don't use water if the
finish is in poor shape.
Damp Mopping is the fastest and best way to deep-clean solid
hardwood floors. Depending on how much use your floor gets,
you may have to mop it as often as once a week. Use a neutral
pH wood cleaner and water, or manufacturer-recommended products.
Wet the mop and wring so it's about half-dry. Wet the floor
with the mop. Dip the mop into clean water, wring it as dry
as you can and mop over the floor again.
HEAVY DUTY MOPPING
If floors are property sealed, the little extra water and cleaner
required will not injure your hardwood floor, but use common
sense. Vinegar -- often prescribed to clean hardwood floors
-- does nothing for removing grease and soil.
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MAINTENANCE COAT
If you can't restore your solid hardwood floor's luster with
deep cleaning or by simply buffing, you may want to apply
a maintenance coat. Waxing is an easy way to restore your
hardwood floor's natural beauty. Though a controversial treatment
for surface finishes, floor polish or wax can give you a good-looking
floor in a matter of minutes. If you don't want to apply a
wax to your surface finish, consult a professional.
Pros: Wax can be easily cleaned, buffed and
rewaxed to make it look like its original condition. Wear
and tear will be on the wax, not the finish. It is easily
stripped and reapplied.
Cons: Waxing may limit some refinishing and
re-coating options down the road. If not properly stripped,
the wax can cause adhesion problems when re-coating the surface.
Only wax a surface finish if the original finish is in
poor shape and you don't plan to refinish your floor in the
near future.
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REMOVING STAINS IN WAXED FLOORS
No matter how careful you are a stain can still occur.
Water Stains
Rub the spot with No. 2 steel wood and rewax. For more serious
water stains, lightly sand with fine sandpaper, clean the
spot with No. 1 or 00 steel wool and mineral spirits or floor
cleaner then refinish and wax.
Cigarette Burns
If not severe, the burn can be removed by rubbing with steel
wool moistened with soap and water.
Heel and Caster Marks
Rub vigorously with fine steel wool and floor cleaner. Wipe
dry and polish.
Ink Stains and Other Dark Spots
Use No. 2 steel wool and floor cleaner to clean the spot and
surrounding area. Thoroughly wash the affected area. If the
spot remains, sand with fine sandpaper, re-wax and polish.
Stubborn stains may require that you replace the affected
area.
Chewing Gum and Wax Deposits
Ice until the deposit is brittle and crumbles off. Pour floor
cleaner around the stain so the fluid soaks under and loosens
it.
Alcohol Spots
Rub the spot with liquid or paste wax.
Repairing Wax Finishes
Rub fine steel wood in a puddle of reconditioner or paint
thinner and clean as you go. Apply wax and buff. Always start
cleaning at the edge of a stain and work toward the center
so it won't spread.
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Removing stains and repairing
surface finishes
Use steel wood or sand paper to remove one or two complete
layers of finish along the entire length of the board where
damage has occurred. Remove all dust. Apply the same type
of finish that was removed, being careful not to build additional
layers on top of adjoining boards.
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Squeaks
When the air in your home becomes extremely dry, your floor
will lose moisture and contract. Conversely, when humidity
is high, your floor will absorb moisture and expand slightly.
As humidity stabilizes, hardwoods regain their original dimensions.
Air conditioning in summer and humidifying in winter will
keep your home's humidity comfortable for you and your floor.
Prolonged cycles of shrinking and swelling of your hardwood
floor may result in squeaks. They can be easily corrected.
Silencing Squeaks
Apply liquid wax, powdered soap, talcum powder or powdered
graphite between floor boards that are rubbing together. If
that doesn't stop the squeak, drive two-inch finishing nails
through pilot holes on both edges of the board then hide the
hole with matching color putty or wax. If you need to refinish
or replace your hardwood floor, consult a professional for
best results. Information furnished by: Hardwood Manufacturers
Association 800/373-WOOD
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